NEW BLOG LOCATION

Our Blog will now be posted within our website. Check it out here: http://trailheadpaddleshack.ca/blog/

We will be no longer updating this page.

Thanks!
OPS

Gens-De-Terre – An Adventure Waiting Around the Corner

I first heard of this river almost a decade ago. I was just getting confident in my creeking, and the crew I was with had kicked around the idea of trying to have a go at this river.  No one really knew much about it; just rumours, bad internet beta, and a topo map that shows a nice combination of gradient and volume and forest access roads.  Sounds great. Throw in rumours of angry moose hunters, a  short runnable window and terrible bugs... needless to say, despite only being three hours from Ottawa, the only attention this river got was around the campfire.

Eventually, a small group of friends headed in one weekend, and came back with tales of high water class five, long portages and a shuttle mission from hell.

Thoughts of the ‘Gens’ never really went away for me.  The possibilities of this river were huge.  All the ingredients were there for a spectacular, accessible, new river.  Flash forward five years and the trip finally started to take shape. 

Myself, Mike McKay, Alex Sauve, Joanne Tognarelli, Marc Audette under the guidance of Todd Keesey, finally got organized enough to get into the Gens.  Did it meet expectations?  Yes.  Was it a long day? Yes.  Did it have class V? Yes. Did it have alot of flat? Yes. Is it good for a mixed group? Yes. Is it an adventure? Absolutely.

Heading up to Verendrye at the end of the workday, meant a bit of scrambling in the dark to get the shuttle done, and the campsite arranged.  I’m intentionally leaving out some specifics so that part of the adventure will remain...

Take Out: In the dark and pouring rain we drove as far up the severely grown-in but otherwise passable road on the river left. This included at least one very sketchy bridge.  Looking at the topo, this road becomes clear. Looking at the forest in the pitch dark the road is less clear.  The further up the road you travel, the less flatwater you finish with.  A high clearance, low roof vehicle is great.  We took a 4-Runner with boats on top.  Not ideal due to the overgrowth.  A pickup works better in this situation. 

Put in:  There are many options, some better  some worse.  Some easy to find, some not so much.  He headed another 45min – 1 hour up the road, and took a fork off into the forest.  The idea was to take this FSR to the Gens.  We camped in the middle of the roadway. Slept. Ate. Drove what we hoped was the rest of the way in. Pushing, pulling, dragging and driving over trees we reached an impassable bridge over a small marshy creek. Looking at the topo and canoe routes map, we guesstimated that that marsh entered the Wapus River, which several long and winding kilometres later, entered the Gens.  We were correct. We’re paddling.

~9km of flatwater winding through marsh, the Wapus met the Gens about 1 km upstream of the first substantial rapid (IV/V).  It was long., maybe a little shallow, and a great start to the day. No established portage route, but you can head through the forest. 

Then a fun, class IV with a couple ledges.  Then a long IV/V boulder garden and you are well inside the canyon.  Beautiful scenery.  Cruisy class II and III for a few kilometers.  Somewhere late morning or early afternoon you come to a substantial falls (Hell’s Gate or something similar).  We all shouldered on an easy trail.  The falls may go, but it would take a different water level and some substantial courage.

Continue on easy III. Stop for lunch.  Pack a good one.  This is a long day.

You will come on a long class IV/V.  Big hole at the bottom.  Strainer rock pile on the left.  Two of our group stepped up, the rest stepped around.  

Continue on easy II and III. Another big rapid/falls.  We all shouldered for this one. 

You are essentially on flatwater from now until the point you left your car.  I would suggest marking the location where you parked (take out) with something visible from a distance, as the Gens is quite wide, and there are many tributaries to distract you from the long flat ahead.

I estimate we paddled another 7 – 10 km of flat at the end of the day before reaching our takeout around 6:00pm.  Back into Maniwaki by 10:00PM.

There are many ways to access the Gens. Many ways to egress the Gens.  What your group decides to do is all part of the fun.  Enjoy the photos.  The internet has lots of disorganized, somewhat confusing resources that – with enough effort – you can cobble together to make a great weekend. I would do this river again, but would likely make the paddling portion a two day adventure just to remove the stress and strain of pushing through the flats.  Take your time; it is lovely country in there.

(All photos courtesy of Marc Audette.)

By: Philip Kompass

Resources:

http://www.canot-camping.ca/english/index.asp?id=166
TopoRama
Cartes Plein Air
Youtube

What's up with SUP! Stand up Paddle Boarding comes to Hell or High Water

Stand up Paddle Boarding comes to Hell or High Water event in Petawawa 

The sport of stand up paddle boarding, or “SUP” as it is best known, has been around for centuries but over the past decade the sport has skyrocketed in popularity.  Combining the tranquility of canoeing, the balance of yoga and the power of paddle sports, every year the sport sees more and more people literally getting on board.

 Enjoying last rays of summer while practicing the sport of standup paddle boarding, or SUP, on Black Bay part of the Petawawa River watershed.All are welcome to try this exciting new sport at Hell or High Water, coming to Petawawa on May 10, 2013. For information visit www.hohw.ca.

If you are having trouble imaging this, think of it as a modified surf board on which you stand, or kneel, and paddle with a long, single bladed paddle. It offers a great abdominal work out, develops core strength and balance and is a ton of fun. The distance above the water, as you are standing, provides a great vantage point for fishing or simply watching the world float by.  Also popular, the practice of yoga - already a great core workout, requiring a lot of balance - is made even more challenging when performed on the floating stand-up paddle board in calm water.

 

 Photo ©Starboard -  The sport of stand up paddleboarding is growing rapidly in popularity. All are welcome to try this exciting new sport at Hell or High Water, coming to Petawawa on May 10, 2013. For information visit www.hohw.ca.

“We are blessed in this are to have access to clean, clear rivers and SUPs are a great way to get “above” the water for a clear view of it all. HOHW will have demos and ‘just for fun’ races throughout the day,” says Kim Barrington, event co-organizer. "The many islands and channels of the Ottawa River provide a spectacular playground for this sport."

 

This year, Hell or High Water (www.hohw.ca), Canada’s premiere paddlesports event, brings SUP to the Ottawa Valley.  Throughout the day on Saturday, May 10, 2013 the public is welcome to visit the Jubilee Lodge and Marina or the “Catwalk” at Centennial Park in Petawawa to try their hand at this sport.  All the equipment is provided, free of charge, and experienced paddlers will be there to assist.
Already familiar with SUP?  For the experienced paddlers, or those people who want to take in the action, Hell or High Water will be hosting a series of ‘fun’ races throughout the dat at the Jubliee Lodge.  Running the same course as the dragon boats, SUPs will go head to head and end to end on the 200 metre course.  The cost to enter the race is only $5 per person, and it should provide spectators with a great show. If you are interested in participate in the race, send an email to  

HOHWPetawawa@hotmail.com or visit register on www.hohw.ca.

Hell or High Water, now in its fifth year celebrates rivers and recreation in the Ottawa Valley while raising funding for three local charities close to the hearts of people here in these communities:  Soldier On; Whitewater Ontario and the "Image Matters" campaign to bring an MRI machine to the Pembroke Regional Hospital. Hell Or High Water is Canada's largest whitewater races, featuring canoes, kayaks and rafts on the rapids of the Petawawa River.  Dragon boats and SUP events will be held at the Jubilee Lodge on the Ottawa River. The event is proudly supported by Trailhead Ottawa Paddleshack and Atomic Energy of Canada Limited.
For more information visit www.HOHW.ca

Contact:
Philip Kompass
p_kompass@hotmail.com
hohwpetawawa@hotmail.com

HOHW Mid Point Update

With the raft teams more than half sold and more than 200 people registered to participate, this year’s Hell or High Water Festival is coming together nicely. We are always looking to bring more people to the event.  It is a great way to introduce new paddlers to harder or more complex whitewater than they may have seen if most of their experience is limited to the Ottawa.  As well, if you have non-paddlers, or very new paddlers, consider entering a raft team.  It gives participants a sense of the fun and excitement of whitewater while ensuring they get through the day in one piece.  The Carlton U whitewater club, for example, has booked up two teams, and we also have a registration from Guelph and Kawartha.  Great to see this.

If any paddlers, your or old, new or weathered want information on this event, just visit www.HOHW.ca or ask any of the paddling staff at Trailhead Paddle Shack.  Ideally we would get a few more team or individuals registering.

The snowpack in the Petawawa watershed (west through Algonquin) has maintained well through the early spring ‘chinook’ and with more snow expected later this week, paddlers in the area are anticipating  great long season on this classic Ontario section of whitewater.

 Philip Kompass

Hell or High Water V - Save The Date

Save the dates for this year's Hell or High Water weekend, sponsored by Trailhead Paddle Shack - OPS Padling.

As much as HOHW is a paddling event, there is much more to it. The event was started as a way to demonstrate and document use of the Petawawa river. The need to do this remains. Please attend the event, but as importantly, paddle the river. We want to document the use. We want to ensure a good show for the spectators. We want to make this river as important for the community as it is for us. Please race. Please bring your friends. Get them in a raft. Get them in a dragon boat.

===

It starts on Friday May 10th with the Reel Paddling Fim Festival.
Saturday May 11th is the whitewater raft, kayak and canoe races, the dragon boat races at Jubilee Lodge, and free photography clinics through John Rathwell.
Sunday May 12th is the whiewater race on the Upper Petawawa.

As always, there will be a dinner and awards, music, cheap camping and all the money we raise goes to great causes. T-shirts, etched beer mugs, hats for sale. Stickers for free.

If all goes well, we will have some NEW ADDITIONS.

Saturday - Boatercross Race
Saturday - Slalom Race
Sunday - "The Animal" Upper Petawawa Race.

And, we will need help with safety boaters, administrative duties, and general labour. If you can lend a hand, please shoot us a note to hohwpetawawa@hotmail.com

HOHW V

A Kayak Trip On The Rideau Canal

Paddling the Rideau Canal

by Tim Morch

Take note: the Rideau Canal is definitely worth paddling.  It is relatively easy, with easy access to supplies along the way.  There is camping at every lock for only $4.90.  The camping rate was correct as of 2012, but recent budget cuts to Parks Canada funding may change things fast.  Go out and paddle the Rideau Canal while you still can enjoy it.

The canal has a rich history and all you research freaks can check your facts. Now that the Rideau Canal is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there is even more information than ever before.  There are plenty of guides and resources to plan your trip.  "Watson's Paddling Guide to the Rideau Canal" is thorough.  I'm here to offer an opinion and some observations.

I put in at Long Island Marina in Kars, just south of Manotick, paddled up the Tay Canal to Perth, back down the canal and south to Lower Brewers Locks.  Overall, the canal is diverse and quite appealing to the paddler. You are not confined to the narrow and often serpentine channel, as is the case with boats.  There are marshes, bays, shallow shores and more just waiting for you to explore them.  Enjoy the ride, take a detour.

Long Island was a good starting point as there is a nice treed area adjacent to the ramp to set up.  I have a Feathercraft, a skin on frame kayak that requires assembly, so I pay particular attention to a flat, shady area for setup/breakdown.  Additionally, the river becomes chock-a-block with competing displays of excess between Kars and Long Island Locks.

Most route guides suggest starting in Kingston and paddling to Ottawa, but I have never been known for following the crowd.  This is primarily due to prevailing winds which I knew would be against me most of the paddle.  Anyway, I am in no hurry and always appreciate a breeze in the face a hot day.

timmorch.com

From Kars to Beckett's Landing, the river is largely lined with homes.  There are, however, a few places to pull out, including Rideau River Provincial Park (camping) and Baxter Conservation Area.  Onward toward Burritt's Rapids, the development dwindles and farms become more prevalent.  Although each of Burritt's Rapids, Lower and Upper Nicholsons and Clowes locks has nice camping spots, I camped at upper Clowes.

The lockmasters do not arrive until 8:30 am. and not having to wait for the lock allows for an early departure.  I was at Merrickville for the first opening.  (The opposite would apply if you came the other direction and the bottom of Burritt's would be the desired spot as the distance to Long Island Lock is the longest single segment on the system.)

I learned that the locks are required to be emptied each night.  If you are going uphill and are there at 8:30, you automatically get the first lock, no waiting for the chamber to be filled/emptied.  The lockmasters also talk up and down the canal, so they knew I was coming.  They will also let the next lock know if you are intending on paddling through and they are often waiting for you.

timmorch.com

Merrickville is a set of three locks with a larger central chamber for boats to pass.  Smith's Falls is the highest lift on the Rideau and one of the few mechanical locks on the system.  The majority of locks are opened and closed manually, just as they were installed in the 1830's

There is a lot of bird life along the canal and the section from Merrickville to Kilmarnock and on to Edmund's Lock is just such a place.  Loons and ospreys are prevalent as are several species of marsh birds.  Great blue herons patiently fish along the shore.  In late August, the red-winged blackbirds are congregating in preparation for migration.  In kayaks or canoes, we can go outside the channel that limits the boaters and get close to the marsh life.

Edmunds lock through Smith's Falls was interesting in the sense that I can now count on one finger the number of times I have paddled through downtown Smith's Falls.  There is a park to pull out at and take a break.  Above Smith's Falls the channel is narrow and winds through marshes to Poonamalie Lock.  There is plenty of space to camp at Poonamalie and the lockmasters will happily leave the key to the washrooms.  A walk up around the end of the cut channel leads to good swimming near the falls.  Clowes to Poonamalie is an easy day and many argue Poonamalie is one of the nicest places to camp.

Leaving Poonamalie, the route winds into Lower Rideau Lake.  There is plenty of exploring outside the channel for the paddler.  The entrance to the Tay Canal is at Beveridge's Locks; two chambers that lift you to what can only be described as a birder's paradise.  That day, I had two distinct up-close-and-personal experiences with loons.  Paddling into the heart of Perth and grabbing a coffee, a cocktail or a meal is fun.  Camp the night as Last Duel Park.  It has been called one of the nicest municipal campgrounds in Ontario.  Or stay with your friends who live along the river!

timmorch.com

My friend Cam joined me in Perth and we headed back to the Rideau Lakes.  The paddling can be slow if there is a strong headwind.  But no worries, there is plenty of time.  This often leads to creative routing to capitalize on a lee shore or some islands and perhaps catch a glimpse of something interesting.  Colonel By Island, on Big Rideau Lake, is a Parks Canada camping location and Murphy's Point Provincial Park is nearby.

There was a slight delay for repairs at Narrows Lock into Upper Rideau Lake.  Most boaters head to Westport, but paddlers will continue along the east side of the lake to Newboro Lock.  Popular with the boating crowd, it is very quiet.  It is all downhill to Kingston from here and Newboro Lake offers plenty of detour possibilities depending on how far you choose to paddle.   The lake is surprisingly un-congested and the shoreline varies as you go.  It becomes Indian Lake without you even really noticing and all of a sudden, Chaffey's Locks.  This is a good place to camp as it has nice camping, all the amenities, including convenience store, beer store and LCBO.

timmorch.com

The next morning, Opinicon Lake was calm and we paddled somewhat circuitously.  As had been the norm most days, the breeze picked up late morning making for very pleasant paddling conditions.  There are several bays to explore and a few side trips on Opinicon, or you can head directly to Davis Lock. It is a short run across Sand Lake to Jones Falls.  

timmorch.com

Jones Falls is definitely one of the highlights of the canal.  When the dam was completed here in 1831, it was the tallest dam in North America and the third tallest in the world!  There is good swimming in the middle pool and camping all over the place.  It is a three chamber lock and being on the wrong end of the wait requires patience.  When we arrived, the Little California Community Club was hosting a roast beef bbq with corn, salads, all the fixings and desert for $5!  There were two local bands playing and we pulled in to the middle lock to the mellow tunes of "On the Banks of the Old Rideau". 

The Kenney Hotel, at the bottom of the locks, has a licensed restaurant and a diner that serves huge ice cream scoops.

timmorch.com

Whitefish, Little Cranberry and Cranberry Lakes are dotted with cottages but there is no feeling of cluster.  I was surprised, actually, how much shoreline along the system is unadulterated.  There is an excellent side trip into Dog Lake as well.

Our last day we paddled down to Lower Brewer's Lock before turning around and returning Upper Brewer's.  It has better camping as Lower Brewer's has a small road (noise and lights) and further down Kingston Mills is close to the 401 and the train tracks.  The lockmasters warn that if you want to sleep, avoid camping at Kingston Mills.  It was a short day, but allowed me time to clean and disassemble my boat and be ready pick up the next day.

All in all, the Rideau Canal is an excellent option for those who are newer to paddle excursions.  You are never far from land or services and the convenience of the cheap and accessible camping makes this trip a good learning option.  With plenty of places to put in and take out, you can do the whole canal or segments easily.

Sea Kayak The Philippines: The Palawan Experience

Paddling Palawan

Sea Kayaking in the Philippines

by: Tim Morch

Photo: timmorch.com

An incredibly clear, multi-hued blue sea dotted with dozens of islands distracted me from my attempt to assemble my Feathercraft Wisper XP kayak.  My eyes kept scanning Bacuit Bay, just outside El Nido, on the northwest end of Palawan Island.  Striking karst formations that typify the landscape displayed an endless series of limestone cliffs leaping from the sea to extraordinary heights. My eyes darted from a frame assembly to a nearby island and back.

Located between the Sulu Sea to the southeast and the South China Sea to the northwest, Palawan is the southern most province in the Philippines.  Palawan consists of more than 1700 islands, nearly 25% of the 7,107 islands that comprise one of the largest archipelagos in the world.  It was designated a fish and wildlife sanctuary in 1967, protecting the sea as well as the virgin jungle that covers the island, making it an outdoor paradise.

Photo: timmorch.com

I had my boat together soon enough, keen to experience nirvana first hand.  After a few day trips to stretch the muscles and get comfortable, my paddling partner, Ian, and myself loaded all necessities for a short expedition south to Port Barton.

We set off across the bay with a rolling 6 ft. swell and strong wind blowing on the starboard beam. The “amihan” is a northeast trade wind that blows from mid-December until mid-April.  As we were to learn, it can get powerful for weeks on end.  A few km across Bacuit Bay, we paddled into sheltered water behind Antalula Island. A small sand beach tucked into the west side looked like a potential campsite, especially as we were hoping to watch sunset.  But it was still early, so we decided to continue.

Photo: timmorch.com

On a chart or GPS it is easy to identify the beaches and they all look enticing.  Unless there is a good sized village, there tends to be no marking on most islands.  It also excludes resorts.  Rounding Pangalusian Island, we discovered a major resort under construction. With 600 labourers working 3 shifts, 24 hours a day, this was clearly not the place to stay.

Across the strait lay a beach dotted by a few bamboo homes and we paddled that way.  We beached and were greeted by Roy, a construction contractor living in the area since 1987. Roy was full of information, including a key piece of data that eluded us thus far: Palawan was under a Signal 1 typhoon warning.  Roy recommended we stay inside his storm shelter and we accepted gladly, hanging our Hennessy Hammocks in a sturdy mangrove frame wrapped in a tarp.  That night saw some strong wind gusts and heavy rains, but by the following morning, it appeared that all was well.  Roy told us the storm was 420km offshore, so we set out believing the storm had passed.

Photo: timmorch.com

The waves were rolling around 10 feet as we rounded the headland and paddled south to the the town of Liminancong which lay at the northern end of the Endeavour Strait.  For the next couple of hours, the water became calm and we glided the strait heading south to the mouth of Malampaya Sound. 

Malampaya Sound was once known as the fish-basket of the Philippines.  Today, although there is an incredible variety of species, the numbers are low.  Twenty-nine resident Irrawaddy dolphins patrol the narrow sound that stretches over 20km inland.  

Photo: timmorch.com

Camp that night was an abandoned resort where we watched the clouds roll in and the wind start up.   It is important to watch not only the high tide reading on your GPS, but the most recent high tide indicator on the beach.  I always set camp well above and it turned out to be an especially good thing that night.  The rain was biblical and the wind topped out around 100kph.  The following morning, we learned that Roy had not informed us the direction Tropical Typhoon Sendong was offshore.  Turned out it was 430 km east and actually passed overhead hours before.

We took a day off to let the ocean regain some sense.  The winds were all over the past 24 hours and, as a result, the waves were as well.  The mouth of Malampaya Sound is full of rocks and small islets.  To get out, you must pass between a small group of islets and a rocky point.  I watched the local boats (bancas) make the transit through some challenging seas and followed their path.  The sea got really wild for an adrenaline-filled kilometre.  To the right, a series of jagged rocks poked out in a chaotic half-barrier that set the ocean askew.  Crazy currents and irrational waves went in every direction.  The island lay 150 meters to the left and the waves that did get past the teeth busy sending a large rebounding wave to add to the soup bowl.  Quite a ride!

Photo: timmorch.com

Breaking through the challenging channel, we settled into the massive rollers that ran down the west coast.  For the next 5km there was nowhere to beach as the coast is sharp rock.  We worked our way around the corner into a gorgeous protected bay and made camp in a perfect lagoon.  This was a boat access only beach, as there were no roads that lead there.

The wind came on early the next morning and we worked straight into it until we got to the lee of a point.  Rounding the point, we again fought the headwind into the bay, ultimately reaching the village of Binga.  A local family living across from where we beached let us hang our hammocks in their yard and use the lovely fresh water that was piped down from Mount Capoas.  Mount Capoas is the highest mountain in northern Palawan.  It springs from the ocean to an impressive 1131m.  In this area, one is always in the shadow of Capoas.

Photo: timmorch.com

Filipinos are very friendly.  Everyone in the Philippines speaks English, so it takes communication out of the equation.  Our new friend John was young, educated and spoke English extremely well.  Like everyone from Binga, he was intimate with the sea.  Unlike the others, he was studying to apply to the Navy.  With John’s assistance, we enjoyed a few cold Red Horse Extra Strong beers and ate fresh barbequed tuna.

The next morning, the entire village was on hand to watch us load our kayaks, climb in and break out through the surf.  I am not sure who got more entertainment: them watching us or us watching them!

Photo: timmorch.com

The remaining couple of days the heading was due south to Port Barton.  The wind was coming over the island and we hung in the lee of sand beaches with rolling hills covered in "cugen" grass in the background.  Occasionally, we would round a rocky point or outcropping to arrive at another beach.  Alimanguan and San Vicente are the only two towns of any size on this part of the coast and we paddled into each to have a look and grab supplies.

As with every expedition, the critical factor is water.  I carried up to 22 litres of water at any time.  Regardless, every opportunity missed to top-up on water is an opportunity wasted.  In Palawan, it seemed that even the tiniest village had a shop selling water, so there was no problem.  There were also several streams rolling off mountains to be boiled or treated along the way.

Just north of Port Barton, we stumbled on a Canadian who owned a chunk of secluded beach with camping.  No roosters, no dogs and no noise were enough to entice us to stay for Christmas and New Year's.  Regrettably, my paddling partner was injured at this time falling from a rock and had to end his trip.  I disassembled my kayak and took the bus back to El Nido for another excursion around the Bacuit archipelago.

Photo: timmorch.com

Photo: timmorch.com

 Check out some of the video footage: